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One particular section of our warehouse has, for the past
several months, been devoted to palettes of our summer vine ripe,
heirloom and local cherry tomatoes. At this time of year, the
tomatoes are gradually replaced with cases of winter squash-butternut,
acorn, delicata, kabocha, pumpkins and gourds of all shapes and
sizes. By the first of November, the tomatoes will
be gone and the winter squash season will be in full swing.
Winter squashes have been used for many centuries
by Native Americans throughout the North and South American continents.
The number, sizes, shapes and colors of the varieties once grown
are astounding. Many of the original Native American varieties
were grown for their ability to feed large numbers of people and
were also used as edible mixing bowls, water containers and for
livestock feed. The name ‘winter squash’ may be a
bit inappropriate-these vegetables are planted in summer,
harvested in the fall, used in winter and can be stored until
spring. Some, such as butternut and acorn, due to popularity,
are available year round. In general, the quality of winter squash
is good throughout its long season. Left whole and uncut, they
can be kept for months in a cool place, 50-60 degrees. Restaurant
chefs seem to realize and appreciate the diverse uses for these
squash as they can be baked for use as an entree or side dish,
pureed for soup or ravioli filling, grilled as a vegetable or
starch, and even deep fried, tempura
style -in all, a very versatile menu item. We are currently stockong
the folowing varieties:
Butternut-resembles an elongated
bell with smooth beige rind. Most popular type of winter squash-sweet
with creamy texture when cooked.
Acorn-resembling, in fact, a large
acorn-available in green, orange and white. Green acorn squash
is sweeter while the orange variety is milder in flavor and more
fibrous.
Kabocha-this is a Japanese squash
often used for tempura. Flattened ball shape, dark green with
white spots and orange smudges.
Delicata-the smallest of the winter
squash, resembling an elongated football with green and orange
stripes. Delicate flavor.
Hubbard-large squash, up to 25lbs.
pale grey-green coloring. Great flavor.
Spaghetti-the oddball of these squashes
in that, after cooking. the flesh separates into strands.
Pumpkins-all varieties available-minis,
white, orange and sugar bear. The latter, also called sugar pie,
is best for cooking. We also have a limited number of “Big
Macs”-200-300 pounds- available.
In addition to the above, we will also be carry Banana, Turban,
Sweet Dumpling and Carnival.
As mentioned, at one time, there were several hundred
varieties of winter squash being grown in North America. Del
Rio Botanicals is now supplying us
with an incredible variety of Heirloom Winter Squash.
These varieties are more akin to the native species in size, shape
and flavor and can be used in the same way as the more conventional
types. Current varieties include Magdelena Big Cheese, Tahitian
Melon, Choctaw,
Papago, Tennessee Sweet Potato, Long Island Cheese and Kentucky
Sweet Potato. All varieities are listed in the weekly Del Rio
Botanical fax, available to all restaurants upon request. A good
way to become acquainted with these winter squashes is to order
a sample case which will contain four or five varieties. It is
our hope that, in the near future, these heirloom squashes will
enjoy the popularity in winter that heirloom tomatoes now enjoy
in summer.
Also, in the warehouse-Pears, Persimmons, Pomegranates
and Cranberries.
Pears-this popular fruit is divided
into two categories-the soft, buttery, European types and the
crisper Asian pears. The season begins with Red and Yellow Bartletts,
available mid-July to early winter. Bosc, Comice, D’Anjou
and Seckel are all winter pears, on the market from October through
early spring. Pears need to ripen off the tree and consideration
should be given to this fact when ordering. Asian Pears have a
crisp texture, like that of an apple. They are generally not used
for cooking and are sold ripe-peak season August through December.
Persimmons-there are two types of
persimmons- the Hachiya, or Japanese persimmon, is large and round
with an elongated tip and the Fuyu, smaller and squat and more
tomato shaped. The Fuyu may be eaten out of hand- the Hachiya,
because of its astringency, is used primarily for cooking.
Pomegranate-Nature’s most
labor intensive fruit. Pomegranates are grown throughout Asia,
the Mediterranean and in California. Choose fruit that are heavy
for their size and have a bright fresh color and are free of cracks
or splits. Pomegrantes can be eaten as a fruit , used as a garnish
in salads or pressed to extract the juice.
Cranberries-the quintessential holiday
fruit. These scarlet berries are cultivated in huge, sandy bogs
on low, trailing vines. Because of their extreme tartness, cranberries
are usually combined with other fruits- apples, oranges- and sugar
for their use in traditional sauces and chutneys.
Seasonal Vegetables-Artichokes,
Brussel Sprouts, Broccoflower, Broccolini, Broccoli Rabe, Red,
Gold and Chioggia Beets, Rainbow Chard, Pearl Onions, Bloomsdale
Spinach, Fingerling Potatoes (Red and Gold). Sweet Potatoes, Yams,
Celery Root and Turnips.
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